Sometimes change is a (very) good thing! That was certainly the case at Robert, which has entered a new era: after the incredible reign of Daniel Morgan (winner of Le Fooding’s Best Chef of 2020 award), it’s time for another British expat, Jack Bosco Baker, to take over. The night we went, the ex-La Vierge chef sent all of the following out of his open kitchen: delicate taramasalata tempura topped with citron leaves; incredible Mont-d’Or fondue with endives, walnuts and hazelnuts for dipping; a hearty chestnut velouté topped with rutabaga pressé and pan-fried wild mushrooms; incredibly tender Iberian pork pluma glazed in jus de viande, surrounded by sweet potato purée and black trumpet mushrooms; and for dessert, a buttery caramelized pear tarte tatin topped with a scoop of chestnut ice cream. // Louise Delange
FEELING THIRSTY? Highly natural bottles: a Loire Sauvignon from Zoé and Thierry Puzelat (€7.50 a glass), a Savoyard red from Matthieu Apffel (€8.50), a Roussillon white from Jean-François Nicq (€30 a bottle)… And if you don’t want wine, there farm-fresh Basque cider from the Domaine Bordatto (€23).
PRICE: Small plates €4-26, desserts €8-10.