Since opening in November 2017, Diego Delbecq and Camille Pailleau’s restaurant has been booked solid. Chic and striking, the décor definitely draws the eye (a ceiling ringed with neon lights, round backlit mirrors, olive green benches, a raised open kitchen), but doesn’t outshine the creations inspired and superbly executed by this former sous-chef at Papillon in Paris. Tested and approved from the (short) menu the night we went: enchanting Landes asparagus served both raw and cooked, judiciously titillated by Catalan anchovies and a tarragon sauce vierge; steamed John Dory with pearly-white flesh and a tangy pea and rhubarb cream; before a deliciously syrupy finale, a divine symphony composed around bell heather honey (prepared as a cream, a cookie and ice cream), crafted by Camille, the former pastry chef at the Plaza Athénée. // M.F.
FEELING THIRSTY? Outstanding wines: a Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune white from the Chapuis (€9 a glass), Les Lanes, a Corbières red (€7), Les Lumachelles, a Côtes-du-Jura red from Etienne Thiébaud (€41 a bottle) or Brise Cailloux, a Côtes-du-Rhône white from Matthieu Barret (€64).
PRICE: Tasting menus €27-31 (lunch except Saturday), €68 (5 courses). À la carte €59-69.