No doubt about it, this little rose (rusidda in the dialect of Palermo) has Sicily in its blood. The proof? Shelves stocked high with pasta, canned tuna and anchovies from Campisi, and even the Mount Etna tattoo the waitress has on her shoulder! We come first and foremost to stuff ourselves with the volcanic pizzoli, Sicilian calzones made with pizza dough stuffed full of good things and baked until golden, crispy perfection. Fur us, the day we went for lunch: a paunchy Arrustutu filled with fior di latte mozzarella, almond pesto, ricotta, tomatoes, oyster mushrooms and roasted onions (€12). Some other options: speck and pistachio lasagna (€15.50); baked Sicilian eggplant and pasta with ragout (€14.50)… Help it all slide down with a white Sicilian wine from Baglio delle Fate (€5 a glass), or a red Etna from La Tenuta delle Terre Nere (€9), before changing course with a ricotta-stuffed cannolo (€7.50). Pizzoli €10.50 to €13, dishes €12.50 to €16. // D.C.