The former co-owner of the much-missed Percherons in Céret, Yannick Serez now keeps old Perpignan hydrated in his brutalist cavern, lodged in the former storeroom of the Casa Julia. Sagí is named after the rancid dried pork leaf lard which is a staple of Catalan winter cuisine. And what about its karma? It’s at full throttle! In the dining room (a long brick arched ceiling, a Zen kitchen/bar, great crates of wine) or on the street, you’ll find 10 tables topped with serious tapas at apéro hour: incredible charcuterie (Galician beef cecina for €12, white bisbe from Empordà for €7), deviled eggs with white miso and black sesame seeds (€7), quail thigh tempura (€11)… Or more, depending on the menu: a whole patty pan squash with Caesar dressing and anchovies from Palamós (€12); clovisse clams stir-fried with white wine, sweet sake, peppers, and absinthe herbs for a touch of bitterness (€11); some very pornographic veal sweetbreads in a green crab bisque reduction and a bouillabaisse jus (€18); a knockout steak béarnaise (€16); or, a flan-like steamed pa d’ous to finish (€5). Plenty of good options to go with the authentic Catalan wine collection: Muscats from Zulu Wine and Danjou-Banessy (€4.50 a glass), a natural sparkling wine from Gilles Troullier (€18 a bottle) and Une Vie la Nuit, a crisp Syrah from Cyril Fhal and Alice Gendron (€28). Dishes €6-18, desserts €5-7. // D.N.