Take a historic fishmonger with Sarreguemines tiling and a monumental fish tank, add an egg-shaped midnight blue central bar with a luminous halo above it, and you’ll get Salina. Fabien Chivot (Moustache, in the 6th arrondissement) runs this elegant fish bar, exceling in small, Japanese-inspired seafood dishes bursting with amazing flavors. Caught on the beautiful tableware and ordered à la carte (but less carefully dressed on the lunchtime set menu): marinated butterfly sardines and mandolined beetroot; a very fresh line-caught Albacore tuna ceviche with melon and red onions; flame-charred marinated mackerel served over a raspberry mash; and red and yellow quinoa with seaweed, a miso condiment and a mixture of bitter grated vegetables served as a side. Not to mention the lone meat dish (Scottish Angus steak, marinated and served with a seafood condiment) and perfect fries. Plus, there’s an excellent Valrhona chocolate sorbet for dessert. // Y.N.
FEELING THIRSTY? Enjoyable natural wines (In Vino Libido, a Minervois from Jean-Philippe Charpentier at €6.50 a glass; an Hérault white from the Domaine Ribiera at €49 a bottle), beers from La Goutte d’Or on tap (€4) and homemade lemonade (€3.50), plus a few cocktails, like a Spritz made with a clementine-rosemary liquor (€8).
PRICE: Set menu €14.50 with a drink (weekday lunch), plates €8-12.