If you’re on the verge of breaking bad near the bottom of Montmartre, you’d better call Saul. Or in this case, David Azoulay, the founder of Pizza di Loretta, who just opened a delightful spot (unfinished stone walls, an open kitchen, high tables) across from his former merguez and pastrami shop, where he serves bowls and pitas. Come nibble on his pretty homemade grub, like we did the day we went for lunch: Saul’s bowls (a little skimpy), filled with four herbaceous falafels, half a roasted sweet potato, fresh pineapple and pomegranate seeds (€14); a beautiful cut of chuck steak, slow-roasted and served over a bed of tahini sauce, fried onions and chopped chives (€7); and an outstanding shakshuka with a majestic egg shining in the center (€8). All that before a good scoop of chocolate mousse (€4.50) and an excellent challah French toast covered in a layer of homemade pineapple-ginger marmalade (€6). For another original treat, try the pita bread topped with roasted cauliflower, sabich, falafel (€8 each) orhis incredible pastrami (€14). To drink, there’s a homemade juice of the day, like the one with pineapple, beets and mint (€4.50), Abracadabra, a white Languedoc wine (€6 a glass), or a Beaujolais, Le Moulin à Vent (€32 a bottle). // V.V.