Ghislaine Arabian’s old restaurant has traded in silverware for untreated wood. In the dining room, you’ll now find Jean-Charles Lecointre, an architect with a bistronome past, joyfully announcing the creations made by Anthony Dorard (ex-Etchebest in Bordeaux), who makes gastronomy sing on Place Sébastopol. For us, the night we went: an asparagus duo (white poached and green grilled) with a faisselle sauce (€12); regional pork belly cooked at a low temperature for 13 hours, flash-seared and dressed with wild garlic potatoes (€16) – or scallops from the Boulonnais coast and seasonal vegetables harvested in Bailleul by Philippe Lalau (€22). The dessert was a staggering and joyful exploration of mushrooms: morels cooked in brown Chimay beer, chicory sponge cake with a button mushroom carpaccio on a bed of white chocolate mousse (€11)! Our only criticism? The wine list that was a little flashy, from which we selected an efficient organic Bourgogne-Épineuil from Dominique Gruhier (€8 a glass), a very fresh Pinot blanc Entre-Deux-Monts from Belgian Flanders (€6.50 a glass) and a red Ventoux Clos de T (€35 a bottle). Dish of the day €14 (weekday lunch – eg.: cod, mashed potatoes and green onions), à la carte €33-48. // M.P.