Bay windows that look out on the theater built in 1903, grey concrete floors, oiled oak tables: Sébastopol sure is a classy spot – and not just when it comes to its looks… Ever since Damien Laforce left to partake in Top Chef 2019, chef Anthony Dorard (ex-Etchebest in Bordeaux) has been excelling there under the leadership of Jean-Charles Lecointre, the former architect who now runs the place. The night we went, the seasonal menu featured: a black and white amuse-bouche of roasted bass with pearly-white flesh and a stormy potato and squid ink emulsion; an audacious steak and oyster tartare with green apple, kohlrabi and a soft-boiled egg; delicate roasted glazed veal sweetbreads with ice plant, a rowdy green watercress coulis, fried salsify and pan-fried oyster mushrooms; before the dessert, which unfortunately wasn’t a success, a pear that was crisper than it was tender, poached in red wine and spices – too bad because the hazelnut lava cake with Ivorian chocolate ganache was undoubtedly a better choice. // M.F.
FEELING THIRSTY? An Alsatian Riesling from the Domaine Lissner (€5.50 a glass), Entre-Deux-Monts, a Chardonnay from Belgian Flanders (€39 a bottle), La Grange des Pères, a 2011 Languedoc red (€170 however!), or even local organic La Singe Savant beer (€7.50 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Dish of the day €14 (lunch), à la carte €35-54.