Emi Takeuchi, the Tokyo native with a thousand lives, has cloned a section of the Shinjuku neighborhood in the neo-bistro recesses of the 9th arrondissement. But don’t expect a cutesy picture-perfect slice of Japan with sakura and geishas – instead you’ll find the 70s nouvelle vague punk rock aesthetic that she’s a fan of! While this former brasserie’s décor hasn’t changed a bit, its walls are now covered in yakuza movie posters and pinku eiga (erotic cinema) posters that sure pique Pigalle appetites! Selected from the unstoppable menu the day we went, on the tip of our chopsticks: a small bowl of fatty tuna marinated with shallots – or grilled tofu; four crispy pork sausages over a bed of vegetables – or a delightful pork loin caramelized in teriyaki sauce and served with rice; before a homemade sesame mochi ice cream with a glass of sake. Otherwise, served à la carte at lunch and dinner: octopus stewed with daikon radish, flank steak tataki with ponzu sauce, grilled mackerel… // V.V.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are plenty of things to raise a glass and proclaim kampai with: Kiku-Masamune sake (€6.50 a glass) or Ohyama Tomizu sake (€57 for 500 ml), organic Bouzeron from Julien Cruchandeau (€8.50 a glass), a natural Saumur-Champigny from Lydie and Thierry Chancelle (€29 a bottle)…
PRICES: Menus €18.50 (weekday lunch), mains €6-29, desserts €7.