Siseng (Paris)

© Yves Nespoulous

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In a space with plenty of wood and brick features, Siseng places all its bets on its secret weapon: bao burgers made on soft steamed buns. Opt for the Japanese version, made with breaded chicken, roasted red peppers, a basil-coconut milk sauce and coleslaw, or the spicier lamb version with cilantro, red onions and roasted chilies. Other options include a juicy beef bun bo xao or black bean noodles (udon, hand-chopped veal and a black bean sauce). It all goes nicely with some vegetable tempura (eggplant, pumpkin, green beans, mushrooms) or spring rolls with cumin-marinated pork belly. And for a simple yet incredibly nostalgic dessert, try the coconut milk flan. // O.J.

FEELING THIRSTY? Japanese beer (Coedo, €8 for 330 ml) or Laotian beer (Beerlao, €5) and a short selection of cocktails, including the Siseng made with gin and a citrus mix (€12).

PRICE: Set menu €15 (weekday lunch), burgers €10, mains €11-14, à la carte €18-26.

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