Son of a Beast

Restaurant Son of a Beast in ParisSon of a Beast (Paris) - © Nicolas Buisson Photography

Led by sheriff Thomas Abramowicz, the Texan-by-way-of-Paris meat smoker extraordinaire and his team have turned the basement of their Belleville Beast into an invigorating Chinese restaurant. Deep down inside their cool survivalist bunker (stainless steel rafters, rough walls softened by golden crepe wallpaper, cosmic light fixtures and a big ketchup-colored table), the end of the world can wait so long as their set six-course menu is still around: plump and crispy half-moon shrimp paste beignets, intensified by lime zest and smoked sesame seeds; a garlicky cucumber salad in a soy and vinegar sauce; an excellent wonton duo – one with shredded pork, the other with beef brisket – in a smoked pork and chive translucent broth; a beautiful soy-and-miso-lacquered cod fillet served with shredded ginger, tender Sichuan eggplant and a bowl of white rice; before an ossuary of Cantonese-style pork ribs; and, for the comforting and homemade mystery dessert, meringue coated in vanilla and bourbon ice cream and rolled in crushed pecans, peanuts and hazelnuts. To drink, there are stripped-back cocktails with not the most glamorous of names (like the C1 with gin, lime, Bénédictine and mint), Deck & Donohue beer (€4.50 for a half-pint) or clean wine like Terre de Galet from the Domaine Richaud (€7 a glass). Set menu €40. // Aïtor Alfonso

Getting there

Restaurant Son of a Beast
78, boulevard de Belleville
TEL: +33 1 43 15 42 49
Subway: Belleville, Couronnes