Sourire (Paris)

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A beautiful Sourire (or “smile” in French) was all that was needed to cheer up this neighborhood stranded between the Cochin hospital and the prison. This one in particular reveals its dimples via a plush space that combines Marmoreal tables and midnight blue banquettes, where the young Alsatian chef pays meticulous attention to the seasons, flavors and ingredient sourcing. The day we went for lunch, the four-course menu (€47) featured: tasty sparassis mushroom, faisselle, Salers cheese, and olive tartelettes, served with an Albacore tuna and smoked tomato tartare, a plump pretzel and a caraway seed flammekueche cream; plump mushroom and roasted porcini ravioli in a broth with sea beans and trout roe; a slice of fried monkfish with coco de Paimpol beans and Breton clams; before a roasted peach served with a fruity sorbet, a fromage blanc mousse and a glass of smoked tea. // M.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? Bourgeois wines: a Montagny premier cru from Laurent Cognard (€12 a glass), a Sancerre red from the Domaine Henry Pellé (€42 a bottle), a Saumur from the Château Yvonne (€62)…

PRICE: Menus €37 and €47.

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