Let’s hope this lasts! Even in his absence (Daniel opened Le Coucou in New York and that keeps him pretty busy…), Spring is just as cool as ever: lively young servers with “say cheese” smiles dressed in tailored suits but no ties, who ask “Comment allez-vous ce soir?” Daniel Rose’s restaurant is, after Notre Dame, the unmissable blockbuster for Americans in Paris. An open kitchen that’s teeming with activity, duplex dining rooms, and guests seated closely together and dressed to the nines. The set “dîner à la française” menu in four well-calibrated and technically complex courses, amuses the crowd for €84: a Mediterranean salad of Breton lobster, heirloom tomatoes, basil and scamorza, topped with a creamy and sweet dressing (carrots, corail, ginger). At the crossroads of a French Riverboat cruise and California, there was roasted monkfish tail with a green curry sauce, fresh almonds, blossoming zucchini served grated, cooked and confit. Then it was time for the French Cancan, via a tender roasted pork filet, roasted eggplant, piquillo peppers and arugula spruced up by a copper pan overflowing with delicious boudin, raw apricots, onions and girolle mushrooms (unfortunately the dish was Instagrammed more than it was eaten by the general assembly). The desserts on the other hand were more forgettable: almond milk sorbet and nougat, blueberry espuma over white chocolate and nectarine in a rosemary jelly. But the world wine collection really shines: Pouilly-Fumé from Jonathan Didier Pabiot (€11 a glass), Morgon Côte de Py from Foillard (€50 a bottle). Set menu €84 (€144 with food and wine pairings). // M.J.-D.