Street Bangkok Roast & Beer
After two flavorful Asian restaurants near the Canal Saint-Martin and Bastille, Norman Kolton is lighting up the stoves on rue Saint-Denis with a new Street Bangkok restaurant serving lacquered and roasted meats. Whole ducks, pork loins and free-range chickens are marinated in spices and then bronzed under the flames of a gigantic oven from Asia with instructions from Jeff Claudio, the former chef at Yardbird in Hong Kong. The rest isn’t shocking: place your order at the counter, grab a seat around one of the communal tables in a space with loud music, neon lights and cardboard containers. The day we went for lunch, which happened to be the third day after opening, our bowls were filled with all kinds of street food beauties: a hearty mix of lacquered duck, roasted chicken and lacquered pork, with their respective sauces (€19); small Asian clams sautéed with fish sauce, soy sauce and Thai basil (€12); cute and crunchy Thai broccoli (€8); and their famous green papaya salad (€8). And to cool off, there’s ginger-cilantro lemonade (€3.50, or free of charge at lunch), along with a nice collection of world beers: Thai Singha for €3.50, Bavarian Erdinger for €3, Scottish Brewdog for €5… There’s no set menu but the dishes are served in two or three different portion sizes. À la carte €20-37. // J.G.