It’s a café, bar, bistro and brasserie: Sunset is something of a Swiss army knife in the Jules-Joffrin neighborhood! While Amine Stambouli (ex-The Mill) runs the bar with his well-crafted cocktail menu, Jordan Bischoff (ex-Jour de Fête) sends out distinguished street urchin cuisine with international influences. Seated in the former dive with unfinished walls (high barstools, red carpeting and armchairs in the dining room), our €16.50 lunch that day featured: salmon tartare with an Espelette coulis, served with a sesame-kiwi-soy-radish puff pastry; Galician steak with béarnaise sauce, new potatoes and lettuce hearts; before a coconut shortbread with whipped cream, cherries, balsamic and fresh tarragon. At night, they unveil the “small plates”: a yellow curry with pumpkin and raisins plus a yogurt sauce (€9), or bonito tataki with satay sauce and caramelized chard (€7). As for the wines, they’re all clean: a Grolleau from Bobinet (€6.50 a glass), a Vacqueyras from Sang des Cailloux (€32 a bottle), an Alsace Riesling from Deiss (€36), etc. Unless you’d prefer one of Amine’s cocktails, like the Sunset Strip combining gin, mandarine, lemon and tonic (€10). Set menus from €14.50 to €16.50 (lunch), brunch €23 (Sunday). Shared plates €6-14 (dinner). // G.D.