Best bar d’auteur Guide 2017
This old Benedictine storehouse-turned-bistro that blurs the lines has been done up by a group of crazy kids who hail from the four corners of planet hype (Sherry Butt in Paris, Pied à Terre in London). Taking on Bordeaux’s proper sensibilities, come savor their menus crafted by the prodigious Félix Clerc. Just take the other day at lunch, for €23: belly-up baby squid dipped in a cream of lettuce; plump suckling pig in a post-apocalyptic garden of charred green beans, red rice and roasted figs; before a lemon curd kiss with a poppy seed crumble and warm strawberry marmalade. At 7pm, the broken grandfather clock gives way to a secret speakeasy, where dandies and bourgeois locals rub elbows in a space decorated with wallpaper and graffitied walls, for a taste of the scathing tapas (steak tartare with satay, prawns marinated with pepper…) and incendiary cocktails inspired by that day’s pantry: a Gilda made with tomato gazpacho, verjus and mezcal; a Chinkuru combining sesame oil, Bénédictine and hydromel, etc. // R.deC.
FEELING THIRSTY? You’re likely to discover some good wines: La Cuisine de ma Mère, a red Chinon from Nicolas Grosbois (€5.50 a glass), Pierre Précieuse, a Pouilly-Fumé from Alexandre Bain (€63 a bottle) or Saint-Chignan Les Terres Blanches (€36).
PRICE: Menus €19-27 (lunch, pairings + €15) and €50 (dinner, pairings +€30), tapas €6-14.