Takao Takano

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In his black and white cocoon shielded from the outside world by thick curtains, with new warming walnut wood tables added this past year, Takao Takano carves out a path through the jungle of Lyonnais fine dining with the help of a katana sword. Simple, clean, precise. So it comes as something of a surprise that the only Japanese touch on his €100 tasting menu is his unchanging amuse-bouche, an egg flan in a beef, shiitake mushroom and raw mackerel consommé. The other evening, it was followed by slices of nearly-raw, line-caught bluefin tuna hidden under thinly sliced bacon, with a bone broth, smoked eggplant, broad beans, peas and grated bottarga; meaty monkfish tail painted with parslied butter, snuggled up against braised fennel, avocado, lemon marmalade and grilled pencil leeks; superb pigeon cooked breast-side down, with the thigh plated aside for nibbling on, plus a bone broth reduction, cherries and pan-fried chanterelles; a beautiful cheese pyramid from La Tête d’Or; before some small strawberries drizzled simply with a grape molasses vinegar, and a few white chocolate rochers with a hidden yuan (yuzu) ice cream center, plus some rhubarb beignets for dessert. // A.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? A Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron or Faustine, a Corsican red from the Domaine Comte Abbatucci (€12 a glass) and some very good natural bottles: Grand Blanc, a Provence white from Henri Milan (€60 a bottle), Emilien 2015, a Bordeaux red from the Château Le Puy (€70) or even Antide, a Côtes-du-Jura white from Jean-François Ganevat (€150).

PRICE: Menus €50 (lunch), €100 and €140.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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