The Cod House

The Cod House (Paris)

© Claire Israel

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Roxanne Boccard’s striking, illustrated décor truly is a sight to see: space, light, volumes, colors, beautiful images and silly wordplay (but nice font)! If you follow the advice written out on the wall – “Stop trying to make everyone happy, you’re not tequila”, head left to the bar and ask for Khan, the new shaker-master, to fix this pronto. If you’re in the mood for some Japanese tapas (edamame, peas in wasabi, cucumbers in a miso sauce…), head to the right and follow the server with as many tattoos as a member of the yakuza, for a seat inside. Here you’ll find chef Yasusan-san preparing simple, fresh dishes, like our lunchtime choice ordered à la carte: a respectable thick-cut yellowtail carpaccio with fresh chilies and a yuzu sauce; DIY rice crepes with tender braised beef, lettuce, julienned leeks; before three light apple-cinnamon gyoza for a beautiful ending to the meal. At lunch, you can also feast on a bento box of the day (eg. green beans in a sesame dressing, fried chicken dumplings, steak with ginger, soy sauce, rice and miso soup). // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s plenty to choose from – a 2017 Chablis Vieilles Vignes from the Domaine Cyril Gautheron (€9 a glass); a 2015 Pic-Saint-Loup, Les Tonillières, from Le Mas Foulaquier (€54 a bottle); or 15 sakes (a sweet Kubota Senju at €13 for 150 ml) and a dozen cocktails, including the Sakuri with tequila, agave-wasabi syrup, lime and curry salt (€14).

PRICE: Weekday bento lunch boxes for €19. À la carte €18-53. Tapas €3-10.

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