Before setting up shop inside the Théâtre National de Bordeaux’s bar in 2018, Maxime Morcelet and Manon Locteau (from the Gang of Food collective) had traveled around a fair bit on the festival circuit (Climax, La Vie Sauvage), preaching the gospel of good food. We happily rediscovered them at this theater bar turned foodie hangout (a big bar, wooden tables, vintage tableware), which now hosts chefs in residence. The evening we went, Mathilde Curt (ex-Belle Campagne, Mampuku, Miles) was in the kitchen, honoring the house’s general good vibes: stunning mini taloa with smoked tomato sauce and sheep’s milk cheese; sublime marinated sardines with cucumber, watermelon, cilantro and raspberries; cheeky grilled quail with a peanut sauce that’ll have you sucking the bones clean; piping hot gyoza with a refreshing slice of melon; and brioche French toast with peach and fromage blanc for dessert. // A.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There are hardly any dead wines at this lively spectacle: Séléné, a Beaujolais red from Sylvère Trichard (€5 a glass); Derrière Les Fagots, an Aude white from the Domaine Fond Cyprès (€56 a bottle); or Pif Côt, a striking Touraine red from the Domaine La Piffaudière (€4.50 a glass, €27 a bottle).
PRICE: Plates €5-15.