Tombé du Ciel
In the train station parking lot, this strange shack (the roof is partially missing, the terrace has been invaded by wild herbs) would certainly please Bruno Dumont. In any case, the good-humored photographer Bruno Pilia took a liking to it, keeping only the black bar and rococo suspension lamps from its previous life as a hostess bar. As for everything else, he entrusted his sons, Ennio and Sandro, who pay homage to everything organic and good from the region: meat and charcuterie from Velanne, eggs from Avignonet, fruits from Anneyron, bread from Les Cairns in Grenoble… For us, the night we went: a big veal burger on a bun from the bakers, and excellent roasted potatoes (€18); a millefeuille of vegetables and fromage frais from Herbeys, with a zucchini and tomato tian, peppers and a tomato confit paste (€11); excellent tuna steak, rolled up in sesame seeds and prepared as a tataki (€18); Basque-style marinated mackerel (€10); and a really good crème caramel to finish (€7)! Wash it all down with one of 30 natural wines chosen by Bruno: Tombé du Ciel from Frédéric Rivaton in the Roussillon (€5 a glass), C’est le Printemps, a joyful Crozes-Hermitage from Dard et Ribo (€33 a bottle), a crazy Sota Mon Soleu from Laurent Fell in the Ardèche (€27). Menu €18-22 (lunch), à la carte €26-35. // A.S.