We’ve come up with the perfect slogan for Tomette: “The wine shop that never leaves anyone high and dry!” So what does the boss, Charlie Genevière, think? Because he can have it for free! But let’s get back to the pitch…. Inside this dimly-lit tavern just a stone’s throw from the Marché d’Aligre, this ex-Mazouz group member (404, Derrière, Andy Wahloo) welcomes a crowd with no fewer than 180 wines and treats, to be enjoyed there or taken to go. The night we went, we toasted while snacking on some really great Roman-style artichokes generously doused in sauce, plump mozzarella drizzled in olive oil, carefully prepared Galician octopus and a steak tartare from Alexandre Polmard. All that, before digging into a deliciously old-fashioned egg custard. Another fine way to make the most of the beautiful bread from B.o bakery is the charcuterie and cheese found in the window display, which makes you want to break in after hours: peppered beef, fennel saucisson from Chavassieux, ham on the bone, charcuterie from Calabria, Auvergne cheeses from Pradel… Otherwise, there’s an efficient lunchtime set menu for 15 bucks featuring, for example, ham you’ll devour down to the bone, smoked ricotta ravioli and a glass of wine in place of dessert! // A.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a moving Côtes-du-Forez from Gilles Bonnefoy (€5.50 a glass), a pretty Ardèche red from Andréa Calek (€30 a bottle), a highly drinkable Saumur-Champigny from Sébastien Bobinet or an infernal Drôme white blend aged in amphora by the Virets (€48).
PRICE: Menu €16 (weekday lunch), plates €3-15.