In the heart of the Aligre neighborhood, there’s an atmospheric tavern (sixties-era light fixtures, shelves full of knickknacks, red neon lights) with a collection of over 180 winey potions. Pick through them all at the wine shop next door, including the cosmic cult-favorite Renaissance from Philippe and Alain Viret in the Rhone (€20 a bottle) or an explosively flavorful S & X from the Domaine Henri Milan in Provence (€39). Then pair them with carefully chosen, simple dishes made by the owner, “Charlie” Genevière (the former general manager of 404/Derrière/Andy Wahloo): some incredibly fresh Marennes-Oléron oysters with bread and salted butter (€2.50 for the n°2); a beautiful organic egg with homemade mayonnaise – perfect with a glass of white wine from Provence, A Bouche Que Veux-Tu produced by Comor (€5); silky ham chiffonade specially prepared by Monsieur Copé, his delicatessen friend in Roye in Picardie (€8); beautiful eggplant lacquered in miso (€10); delicious XXL roasted white asparagus under a sprinkling of shaved Parmesan (€10); or perfect suckling pig slow-cooked for six hours over a low flame, with crispy skin and tons of new potatoes (€13). For dessert: a comforting rice pudding or chocolate lava cake (€6 each). Plates €3-12. // G.LeP.