Under the high draped ceiling and between rough-stone walls, Tomohiro Hatakeyama and Yosuke Kuji demonstrate that there’s life after sushi at every service! The proof the night we went, on the €36 menu, took the form of a delicate snow crab flan, sea bream marinated in fermented rice vinegar and then grilled, eel lacquered with soy sauce, a rare wild half-dried capelin, and ginger or sake ice cream. To drink, there are a few good wines: Condrieu from Christophe Pichon (€56 a bottle) or a Saint-Joseph red from Cuilleron (€32). Plus 15 sakes (try the yama, served hot, €14 for 150 ml) and an extremely rare sochu, the hyakunen no kodoku, with toasted malt notes (€12 for 50 ml). Set menus starting at €16 (lunch), menus €36 and €49 (dinner), à la carte €25-45. // D.C.