A newcomer to the heavenly restaurant scene of the 10th arrondissement, Tounsia is a small, family-run Tunisian spot (mom in the kitchen, her daughters in the dining room) with blue and yellow walls like the beaches of Sfax. You can brunch on pancakes or even an authentic shakshouka (€11, +€3 for feta or merguez). Or why not dig into a soft chapatti sandwich, Tunis’s famous street food star filled with tuna, mechouia and an herb omelet (€12), or a mlawi (cumin-marinated chicken in a semolina flour wrap, €13), all served with raw vegetables and excellent sauces – harissa, yogurt/mint, etc. And don’t forget about the spicy, tender octopus couscous like they make on the Kerkennah Islands (€16), and its vegetarian brother – €10, to which you can add merguez or feta for €3. Generous desserts (lemon-speculoos cheesecake with peach and orange blossom compote, €7) and classic drinks (homemade orange blossom lemonade or iced mint tea for €4.50 each). // A.M.-D.