The latest gem in the SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood, Vermillon brightens up dreary days with radiant colors of melting-pot cuisine! In his tiny bistro (tommettetile floor, retro tableware and flea market furniture), Roland Dufour (ex-Pistache) welcomes customers in and describes the menu designed by Arthur Havet (ex-Olive & Cacahuète), who works alone in the open kitchen. The night wewent, the baseball hat-wearing thirtysomething brought out the big guns: a sweet white carrot and turnip velouté sprinkled with sesame seeds (€5) – or coriander hummus (€5); trout and kiwi tataki with a moussey guacamole (€16) – or chicken ballotines with coppa ham, scamorza and redcurrant jus (€15); before an amazing chocolate lava cake, pimped out with a sprinkling of sea salt (€5) – or an apple, walnut and blueberry crumble (€5). To wash it all down: a robust Côtes-du-Roussillon from LeClos des Fées (€5 a glass), a Muscadet-sur-lie from the Domaine Ménard-Gaborit (€20 a bottle), or a Coteaux-d’Aix rosé from the Château Barbebelle (€24). Set menu €12.50 (lunch). À la carte €23-32 (dinner). // A.L.-Z.