Via del Vi
After years as a diplomatic sommelier living between Washington, London and the Élysée Palace, Catalan-born Romain Margueritte is back home, where he converted a kebab shop into a Slow Food consulate. What should you expect? A stylish cave à manger (a Corten steel door, a high oenothèque, lively music), that’s carried by the instinctive cuisine of Aurélia Mari, his better half with loads of talent. Served à la carte, the night we went: a divine haddock terrine in a chilled zucchini soup with coconut milk and dill (€9); glorious Catalan herb sausages with red cabbage salad and horseradish mayo (€16); sheep’s milk tomme from the Saint Michel de Cuxa cheese shop in Taurinya (€9); before peaches in verbena syrup, with Catalan mel i mató (honey and fresh sheep’s milk caillé) and homemade granola for the delightful finale (€9). To wash it all down, there’s a high ranking natural wine collection: Terra Links, a Jura Savagnin from Céline Gormally (€6 a glass), Canta Mañana, a rosé from Alain Castex (€26 a bottle), a pure Grenache from Rié and Hirofumi Shoji (€34) and El Carner from Tom Lubbe for a diabolical Entre-Deux (€36). À la carte €31-35. // D.N.