Virtus (Paris)

© Marcelo Joulia

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The explosively talented Argentine-Japanese duo, Marcelo di Giacomo and Chiho Kanzaki, still make climbing up Rue Cotte worth the while! Pretty décor (velvet banquettes, vintage lamps, attentive service) and a Découverte lunch menu that puts all of its cards on the table: mini Neapolitan pizzas with anchovy cream, beetroot chips, oxalis and toasted black sesame seeds, as the amusing amuse-bouche; striking line-caught Albacore tuna tartare with mandolined kohlrabi and avocado; beautiful mullet with braised endives in a tangy sauce; before a coffee-coconut-pistachio cream pudding under an almond tuile. At night, the six-course tasting menu takes over: line-caught meagre tartare with kohlrabi and avocado; squid with eggplant; Challans duck in a rich jus; flavorful raspberries with verbena; red kuri squash mousse with pistachio ganache and a coffee ice cream… // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? The very natural wine list loves to be flipped through: a regenerating Portuguese red, Folias de Baco (€10 a glass); Les Bussières, a Mercurey white from the Domaine Gouffier (€13); Far Ouest 2010, a Coteaux-du-Languedoc red that goes down easy from Mylène Bru (€65)… For some stronger options, there are several handpicked sakes (Kuheiji Eau du Désir 2015 at €120 for 720 ml) or a Cantillon beer (€18 for 375 ml).

PRICE: Menus €39 (weekday lunch with food and wine pairings +€20), €75 and €85 (food and wine pairings +€55) and €115 (food and wine pairings + €60), à la carte €93-101.

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