The same name, the same pair of aces in the kitchen (Chiho Kanzaki and Marcelo di Giacomo, who trained at Maura Colagreco’s Le Mirazur), the same creative decoration (vintage furniture, marble-topped tables, cosmic light fixtures)…. Virtus has brought its swagger over to rue de Cotte, in what used to be La Gazzetta and Tondo. The day we went for lunch, served à la carte: a piercing black mullet tartare with avocado cream and daikon radish, topped with a chive cream (€12); flash-seared squid flirting with roasted Chinese cabbage and turnips blanched in an insanely good eel sauce (€28); before a wonderful chocolate pudding with a green tea cream and verbena ice cream (€10). At night, the sentimental food from these two lovebirds means even tastier dishes: porcini mushrooms and a purée of pumpkin (sourced from Annie Bertin); veal chops and a transcendent polenta; cream of curry and kiwi…. With perfect drink pairings thanks to Paz Levinston’s good finds: wines from all over (an intoxicating Malbec from Riccitelli, an organic Grenache, Opi d’Aqui, an orangey Malvasia from Pradarolo, €8-10 a glass), well chosen sakes (like the Kimoto from Yamagata Masamune, €70 a bottle), along with a dozen craft beers including a Philomenn lager from Brittany (€7 for 330 ml). À la carte €36-55. The lunchtime menu (dish + cheese) for €17 is also notable. Dinner menu: €59.50. // G.L.P.