Biggest Crush of 2017
Ready for adventure from the early hours of the evening, this narrow bottlenecked space that snakes between a marble bar and shelves filled with natural wines (150 labels!) becomes a true Leviathan when Pierre Touitou (Pierre Gagnaire, Aux Deux Amis…) steps behind the bar and lights up his ceramic hot plates. Every day, the virtuoso gracefully prepares a menu with ten dishes (€6 to €26), depending on his mood. The night we went, we warmed up with some comforting chicken wings before attacking the more serious stuff: steamed asparagus with a wild garlic coulis made on the spot; sublime foie gras made even better with diced potatoes, shallots, capers and porcini mushroom powder; elicoidali (big pasta) with a dense and spicy tuna ragout, which had us licking the plate clean; before, for the less impressive dessert, a three-chocolate slab with spices and seeds. Dive into the just as miraculous wine collection, which includes around 15 wines served by the glass (€6-17): a Languedoc white from the Domaine Ribiera, an Aveyron from Nicolas Carmarans, a curious Maître Renard from Philippe Brand… By the bottle, there’s Ardèche Babiole from Andrea Calek (€33) or Arbois Fleur de Savagnin from the Domaine de La Tournelle (€47). À la carte €25-40. // G.D.