Wadja (Paris)

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You’ll no longer find so many art students, or even rich folk for that matter, at this Montparnasse spot (geometric tiling, moleskin benches, an iconic Michel Tolmer poster, and vintage effigies of Nectar, the drunken mascot for Nicolas…) which was founded in 1942. Erwan Coiffard, a pork butcher by training who we’ve already seen at Bachaumont, has just moved to Wadja, with his very personal address book in tow – fruit and vegetables from the Ferme des Pins Sylvestres in Coole, fish from Tom Saveurs, cheese from Alain Riveron in Chelles, and meat from Brice Pellevoisin from Puy-en-Velay. And the results are pretty impressive! Just take our dinner, ordered à la carte: a tender beef cheek terrine, eaten cheek to cheek; a thick-cut pork chop with a reduction and a small bowl of tender coco de Paimpol beans; and a fiery dessert of figs in a red wine sauce with cherry ice cream. At lunch, there’s a straight-forward prix-fixe menu featuring things like a bean and baked ham salad, followed by pan-fried sirloin steak with leeks, and apple cake for dessert. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are both biodynamic and natural wines: a 2015 Arbois Chardonnay, Chantemerle, from Jérôme Arnoux (€6 a glass); a VDF, Folle Blanche, from Marc Pesnot (€38 a bottle); and a 2016 red Bordeaux Supérieur, Omar Khayyam, from the Château l’Escart (€37). And to take things a step further, there’s a rich collection of eau-de-vie from Christian Binner (€10 a glass).

PRICE: Lunch menu €24-27 and dinner €29-36. À la carte €37-48.

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