For the past 20 years, the incredible Denise Leguay has been scoffing at Montparnasse brasseries with her old-school bistro (Art Deco mirrors, Moleskin benches, timeless tile floors), where all of the neighborhood’s scruffy bourgeois intellectuals come discuss Philippine cinema and good bottles of wine. The youthful chef Mathieu Longchamps (ex-Pic) was in the kitchens, dressing up bistro classics on the cool €23 menu: delicious haddock sashimi with farm-fresh cream – or oxtail gyoza; tender pork chops with a carrot mousseline – or scallops in a citrus grenobloise sauce; before a roasted white peach in a pink verbena syrup. To drink, there are some great naturophile wines: La Soif du Mal, a red Roussillon from Jean-François Nicq (€5.50 a glass), a Coteaux-d’Aix-en-Provence from the Domaine d’Eole (€33 a bottle), and the whole range of eau-de-vie from Binner for night owls (€10 a glass). Menus €22-24 (lunch), menu-carte €43-48. // R.deC.