William Neff (ex-Frenchie and known as “Willette”) chose a corner of Rue de Trévise that was brushed by an explosion in 2019 for his café-cum-watering hole. The space? An all-green bar, old-fashioned posters and floral tables, where we enjoyed a basically perfect set menu the day we went for lunch: a rich onion soup thickened by Soissons beans under a veil of melted Parmesan; an imposing parallelepiped veal rump that was supposed to be medium rare but came out overcooked, made up for by the delicious mashed potatoes and tender slices of carrot, all brought together by a mustard sauce; before a Mirabelle plum financier paired with a whipped cream that really hit the nail on the head! Other options available à la carte: black trumpet mushrooms, sunchokes and a runny egg; beef carpaccio with mushrooms and mayonnaise; monkfish stew, mashed potatoes, capers and sea beans… // Y.N. and A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic or natural wines: an Aude white from the Domaine Balansa (€6 a glass), an Auvergne red from the Domaine Sauvat (€25 a bottle), a Jurançon Uroulat (€35 a bottle)… Along with craft beer (€3.80 for 250 ml).
PRICE: Set menu €19-24 (lunch), plates €5-22.