Slowly but surely, Rue de Trévise is recovering from the gas explosion that recently took place there. In the spot where Kevin Blackwell once showered the neighborhood with his breathtaking natural wines, elegant golden italics are now emblazoned across the windowed façade of the brand spanking new Willette – the chef-proprietor William Neff’s nickname, who earned his stripes under Alain Ducasse and Greg Marchand. What to expect from this “café-cum-neighborhood joint”? A dozen plates combining joyful contemporary creations, skillful techniques and a terroir-ist approach to sourcing. Among our favorites: a roasted Allier sausage with kumquats, toasted pistachios and a savory jus; incredible white asparagus from Anjou, with a shallot sauce and a mi-cuit egg; ricotta di bufala with lemon and pine nuts; a corpulent beef carpaccio with button mushrooms and tarragon-infused mayonnaise; or even a rhubarb-speculoos panna cotta for dessert! To be honest, Willette, c’est chouette! // Y.N.
FEELING THIRSTY? Cocktails upon request (€8.50), Grand Paris beer on tap (€6.50 for 450 ml), Demoiselles, a Côtes-d’Auvergne-Boudes from the Domaine Sauvat (€6 a glass), Jurançon from Uroulat (€32 a bottle), Blovas, a Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine du Trapadis (€30), etc., on a menu that’s still a little short.
PRICE: Set menus from €17.50 to €22 (lunch), plates from €4.50 to €21.