Love lasts for three years (at least) three times, since we’re still Yam’Tcharmed by Le Guide Fooding’s Best Chef of 2010! In their feng-chic oratory (blue walls, a whitewashed wooden ceiling, walnut tables), Burgundy-born chef Adeline Grattard and her Cantonese husband Chi Wah Chan who’s an expert in Chinese teas, work together to build a perfect world. The day we went for lunch, the three-course menu (€70, with the option for a food and tea pairing, +€20) got off to a muscular start with octopus medallions bulging like triceps, on a backdrop of coppery rougail sausage stew, XO sauce and blistered tomatoes, scooped up with braided bao bread, and masterfully paired with a smoked Taiwanese oolong tea; followed by a monumental chicken royale that had converted to Taoism, with a peanut sauce and a bed of roasted leeks and cured ham – heightened by a fine pu’er; before a moussey milk chocolate tartelette topped with raw figs – perfect with a fruity red tea. But winos can rest easy, the house has a plethora of nectars unearthed by the brilliant Marine Delaporte: Terrasses-du-Larzac from the Domaine Vaïsse (€14 a glass), Saumur blanc from the Domaine Guiberteau (€50 a bottle), La Marginale, a Saumur-Champigny from Thierry Germain (€70)… Menus €70 (weekday lunch) and €150 (dinner). Food-tea pairings €20 (lunch) and €40 (dinner), food-wine pairings €40 (lunch) and €70 (dinner). // A.A.