Yard(core) is back! Entrusted to the English grocer Culinaries, the addictive post-industrial dining hall opened by Jane and Kate Drotter (an ink-toned brick facade, whitewashed walls, solid hardwood floors) is back with a vengeance… and even more square footage! The restaurant side is no less groovy than before, and Svente Forstrop (ex-Achille) whipped up some seriously rhythmic dishes the night we went: a colorful gazpacho seasoned with lemongrass and feta (€6); freshly chopped steak tartare with sea beans tossed in a tonnato-style mayo that got our fever rising (€10); langoustines smoking over hay (€4 a piece); octopus giving out Free Hugs with a mound of peas in jus de viande, plus yogurt and mint (€22); insane veal chops served sliced off the bone for shared appetites (€75); and a chocolate-praline ganache with a little less kick to it for dessert (€7). Behind the bar, you’ll find some finger-lickin’ good treats: lovely spherical potato-herring croquettes (€2 a piece); a mind-blowing chicken liver and pea tartine (€6); freshly baked pita with pesto or cecina (€9)…. As for the bottles of natural wine, your local dealer Clovis Ochin has a few things up his sleeve: A La Natural, a red from Patrick Bouju in Auvergne (€6 a glass), a supernatural Catalan from Partida Creus (€32 a bottle) or some majestic Pinot noirs from Fred Cossard (€63). Set lunch menus: €18-22. À la carte €30-60. // A.A.