Yima

After a six-month stint in the kitchens at the concept store Jogging, the charming Ella Afalo migrated to the working-class Noailles neighborhood to open up Yima – a spot that brings the Jewish and Arab worlds together around the word “mama.” In this beautiful retro-chic setting (a blonde wooden bar, peacock blue lacquering, old Guzzini lamps), the Riviera native pays culinary homage to the legacy of the women who watched her grow up, while stylish gadjos take orders in the dining room. During the inaugural lunch: a delicate green chili beignet lapped in sumac-sprinkled labneh; tender roasted sweet potato with a cushy raw cream and pomegranate seeds; juicy beef fillet gravlax over polenta with buckwheat and roasted squash; before a fabulous frangipane ice cream paired with a pistachio-cinnamon roll, or a heavenly candied orange beignet. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Flip for the exclusively organic options: heads gets you homemade orange blossomlemonade (€4) or fresh mint tea (€3.80), and tails you win a lively red Cévennes from Le Mas Foulaquier (€26 a bottle) or a Tiboulen blond beer from the Zoumaï brewery (€6 for 330 ml).

PRICES: Breakfast €9.50, plates €7.50 to €17, desserts €7-8.