In a grey granite concretion across from the Maison de la Radio, Alexandre Giesbert and Julien Ross (Roco, Daroco) have carved out their elegant new cavern with plenty of marble, undulating ceilings, sparkling mirrors and hemispherical benches…. From sunrise to sunset, a team of chefs dressed in white hats plays with the basics of brasserie cuisine. Served à la carte, the day we went for lunch, with plenty of cracked pepper and enthusiasm: beautiful roasted leeks, brushed with a mustardy almond cream vinaigrette and sprinkled with dill (€8); a pair of rosy lamb chops plated in a heart shape, glistening with jus, plus an impeccable caponata and a barricade of Pont-Neuf fried potatoes (€28); before a bombastic rhubarb and raspberry pavlova (€10). To drink, there’s an ecumenist wine list: a fresh Muscadet from the Domaine Luneau-Papin (€6 a glass), an Alsatian Pinot noir from the Domaine Gresser (€39 a bottle), etc. In the morning, there are carefully prepared breakfast set menus (€15, €22 and €30). And during the off-hours, there’s some good comfort food like croque monsieurs and omelets, ranging from €7 to €14. Cocktails at night for €12. A seafood stall coming soon. Rotating daily dishes, €19. À la carte €25-50. // A.A.