Rhézome? It’s a rather convoluted play on words between “réseau” (French for “network”) and “rhizome” (a Deleuzian concept), making for a restaurant based around connections and owned by ex-philosophy teacher Jean-François Pascal, where chefs in residency stitch together their various experiences. Alice Arnoux, the first chef to try her hand at it, boasts an impressive resume: Noma and Birkemosegaard in Copenhagen, Fulgurances in Paris, La Marine in Noirmoutier, Carousel in London… The day we went for lunch, seated in the 1970s-style refectory (cubic furniture, yellow-orange linoleum, convex columns), we had all of the following: good crab paired with lovage mayonnaise and pear kimchi, hiding under a kohlrabi and apple carpaccio; a cool slice of red kuri squash roasted over hay, with granola, a purée of the same squash, pan-fried chanterelle mushrooms, orange slices and a full-bodied mushroom jus; before an orange and red kuri squash sorbet living in a thruple with carrot cake and a white chocolate squash cream. It’s also worth noting that as with any good, metamorphosing spot, Rhézome also welcomes in creative entrepreneurs during the day. // Eric Taylor
FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list that checks off all kinds of boxes: a Touraine white from Les Tètes (€7 a glass), an Anjou Grolleau produced by Jo Pithon (€32 a bottle), a militant Vins & Volailles Gamay (€64) or Symples infusions (€7 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Set menus €29 (weekday lunch) and €68 (dinner), à la carte €36-45 (lunch).