Rozó

This is the start of a new chapter for Rozó, the restaurant owned by chef Diego Delbecq and pastry chef Camille Pailleau, who have finally reopened after two years of renovations in a former printing house located in the suburbs of Lille, boasting plenty of brick, windows and character. Shall we set the scene for you? Classy decor by Pollux (light oak tables, tulip chairs, firefly-like suspension lamps) to better highlight the creations by the former Papillon sous-chef, which we savored the day we went for lunch on the lovely €37 menu: light puffed bread with Mimolette cheese and lovage salt for the amuse-bouche; spirited trout from the Artois region served raw and paired with celery rémoulade, mustard with celery leaves and trout roe; intensely flavorful, pearly-white sea bream paired with summer cabbage and redcurrants, moistened by a quatre-quarts sauce; before the knock out finale prepared by Camille, a raspberry cheesecake topped with tiny purple basil leaves. At dinnertime, things get shaken up a bit: apéros and snacks file out upstairs, followed by a glance at the kitchen before settling in for a five- or six-course menu. // John Mason 

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines that reach for the stars: a Rhone white from the Domaine Eymin Tichoux (€9 a glass), a Burgundy Aligoté from Les Horée (€64 a bottle), a Jura Pinot Noir by Jean-François Ganevat (€105)… 
PRICE: Set menus €37-64 (weekday lunch), €85-105 (dinner and Saturday lunch).