There’s a new spot on the flashy Cours du Chapeau-Rouge! After Mazal and Frida, lovebirds Sarah Pinard-Ranson and Samuel Ranson-Kaufmann have added another branch to their Levantine tree with a restaurant named Yeled – which means “descendant” in Hebrew. What makes the latest addition to their tribe so special? A certain talent for preparing fish and seafood, which we could have sworn we saw still wriggling around on the granite bar just a few seconds earlier…. The night we went, chef Jean-Christophe Martinez (ex-Hôtel de Sèze) sent out four clever courses – raw, cooked, vegetarian and dessert: soft challah served with dill butter, plus translucent raw langoustines topped with sumac, finger lime and cilantro, lounging on a light Granny smith apple mousse; crispy spelt with an incredible mustard seed tartare sauce for dipping; graceful zucchini blossom beignets sprinkled with ricotta; before plain and pickled mirabelle plums and slivered fresh almonds on a thin pastry sheet atop crème amandine and a scoop of kirsch ice cream. We devoured it all while simultaneous eying the whole fish served at the next table over from us: dry-aged and roasted bluefin tuna, salt-crusted bass, butterflied hake from Saint-Jean-de-Luz… // Raoul Taburin
FEELING THIRSTY? A dry Lebanese white from the Muzar winery (€6.50 a glass) and a range of French wines concocted by Timothé Seguin-Medrinal, featuring everything from reasonable options (like a red Bordeaux from the Château Nicot for €29 a bottle) to more extravagant choices (like the Bâtard-Montrachet for €1,195…). Unless you’d rather opt for the talented Andreï’s cocktails (€9-14).
PRICE: À la carte €50-90.
