With its orange globe lights, small retro dining room with dim lighting, seventies-era furniture and XL bar, Philippe Baranes’ restaurant (who also owns Dessance) keeps the embers of Braisenville glowing in a vintage yet modern way. The reason for his success? This place was one of the first in Paris, along with Le Dauphin, to attempt serving raciones (a cross between main courses and tapas), using unexpected flavor combinations (like bonito with red currants and cabbage) without any misses. For the most modern amongst you, dive headfirst into these adventurous dishes: raw hake, carrot-passion fruit purée and eggplant ravioli; masterful veal rump mi-cuit with corn purée, a pea pod jelly, a pop corn tuile, and subtle touches of smoked corn and blackcurrant; or a chocolate-praliné feuillantine with chocolate ganache and a Perrier-mint sorbet! Don’t forget about the wonderful baked truffled ham or the Black Angus prime rib for two (€58) that will delight lovers of well-made classics. At lunch, the fun set menu option for €17 has things like lamb-spinach-smoked ricotta ravioli or black pollack with Chinese cabbage and hibiscus jelly. There’s a selection of wines of the same caliber: Languedoc blanc from Jeantet-Laurent (€5 a glass), Mercurey from Bruno Lorenzon (€7), and Sauvignon gris from Jacky Preys or a red Rhone wine from Trapadis for €24 a bottle. Set menu options €18-22 (lunch), à la carte €37-50. // G.D.