The order given to the interior designer must have gone something like this: “Make us a bistro that reflects the times.” And the contract was honored, with the necessary white, veneered wood, stone, mirrors, hanging light bulbs, marble counter, Scandinavian chairs and an open kitchen! At Caillebotte, their new playground, Franck Baranger (chef) and Edouard Bobin, the successful stalwarts at Pantruche, have chosen a corner of the street a little ways from rue des Martyrs. A real godsend for all those who wasted precious time trying in vain to reserve a table for two at the mother bistro, once it was named Fooding Guide’s 2012 best bistro. And even more so given that the menu brazenly clones (and how well!) the elegant bistronomy that has given the chef Baranger his reputation: two Roumégous flash steamed oysters, citrus mousse, oxalis leaves and a bouillon of hot lettuce; quail from Vendée, stuffed with kohlrabi and Chinese cabbage, lardons and burnt leaf, a blue note with a Languedoc Les Creisses; Poujauran bread to clean the plates with and warm finger bowls to stay clean; roasted Solliès figs, gingerbread ice cream and coffee crumble, with a glass of white Saumur L’Ardillon du Domaine Giraudière with notes of licorice (€5 and €6 a glass). Pure pleasure! Formula €14-18 (lunch), menus €34 and €48. // Y.N.