Behind his windowed kitchen, across from the big marbled counter – the ideal spot for a lunch break – Franck Baranger (who is also the papa of Le Pantruche) keeps an eye on things: the sixty chairs that are quickly filled up by regulars, his team who quickly send out little gems like this pork loin with a lick of sesame and carrot mousseline, as the glorious dish of the day. On the menu-carte, it’s more of the same: creamy Parmesan and chorizo risotto that doesn’t overwhelm the delicate calamari cooked in a lemon broth; or, better yet, a meagre fillet cooked on the skin, with yellow zucchini and green zebra tomato concassé; before a seasonal dessert of roasted Roussillon apricots, coffee ice cream and a marjoram shortbread cookie. The wine selection is held to the same high standards: Touraine from François Chidaine (€25 a bottle), Mercurey from Raquillet (€42)…. Or, served by the glass, a splendid Savennières Clos Saint-Yves (€6 a glass) and a full-bodied and smooth Coteaux-de-Peyriac from La Tour Boisée (€7). Set menu option €19 (weekday lunch), menu €36. // G.D.