Do we still need to introduce THE prince of the faubourgs? A gardener and landscaper by training, this handsome Basque is a pure autodidact who learned to cook by chance, through love, travels, new encounters… After having sharpened his knives at La Famille (Abbesses), and then at Mac/Val (Vitry-sur-Seine), Iñaki decided to scout out the still virgin territory around the Goncourt metro station by igniting two bombs: Le Chateaubriand (Le Fooding’s 2007 pick for Best Restaurant Award) and Le Dauphin (Le Fooding’s 2011 choice for Best Decor). A free electron, the rock star of the raw and the cooked, he signs and countersigns sensual, daring dishes… Talent and style have finally been reunited.
A few feet away from rue du Faubourg-Saint-Antoine, Bertrand Auboyneau colonized rue Paul-Bert (winner of Le Fooding Guide’s 2007 Best Street Award). An enlightened and enlightening bistroteur, he’s been mixing up the bourgeois diet since 1996 by highlighting his favorite products and small producer wines.
His first bistro (Le Paul Bert) was followed by a marine annex (L’Écailler du Bistrot in 1997) and, starting in 2013, a restomarket (6 Paul Bert), to fill up bellies and baskets! A classy guy, Bébert insisted that Thierry Laurent and Louis-Philippe Riel, his chefs who will also be present during Le Grand Fooding S.Pellegrino, be given credit. We’ve kept our word!
Or how Noah, a young guy from Montreal, having decided to follow Rae, his New Yorker girlfriend, found himself in the center of Brooklyn, smoking meat on the rooftop of his building, for a Montreal take on New York pastrami. Encouraged by his friends, he ended up opening a postmodern deli in a small garage in Boerum Hill in 2010, with the help of Rae. And bingo! Mile End — named after a working-class neighborhood in Montreal — was stormed for their homemade bagels, their smoked fish and meats, and their chic, kosher charcuteries.
After passing through a few fancy NYC restaurants (which almost turned him off of cooking entirely), the improbable winner of the 2008 Pesto World Championship discovered a shabby take-away spot in the Mission District, Frisco’s oldest neighborhood and stronghold of the Hells Angels and the Hispanic community. Ever since 2010, Mission Chinese Food has made a name for itself as the world’s coolest
restaurant, with its Chinese food porn and its dishes that honor the chefs he idolizes most: Iñaki Aizpitarte, Michel Bras, Pascal Barbot… Almost overnight, the young American of Korean heritage became a superstar. His Sichuan-inspired restaurants blew up from SF to NYC, his personal style seduced Uniqlo and even his tacos are psychedelicious (Mission Cantina on the Lower East Side in NYC).
The theorist of “Design Culinaire” and a completely crazy culinary artist, Marc has multiplied his collaborations with the Fondation Cartier, the Palais de Tokyo and the Grande Epicerie de Paris… When he isn’t snacking at his studio in Ménilmontant, this punk rock lover, and Les Equarisseurs band member, teaches design at the ESAD school in Reims or puts on memorable shows. Amongst which, D’la soupe, a revisited and supercharged pop soup, or Gâteau 364, a Lewis Carroll-inspired cake… A remarkable book, Culinaire Design (published by Éditions Alternatives), retraces his work up until 2010. When will they print the next edition with photos of our Pur Brunch Nespresso?
The singer of Ta Douleur, anthem of an entire generation, isn’t a faubourgeoise. She is unclassifiable. An accomplished artist, author, composer, singer and occasional actress, she sets fire to the stage, puts her audience into a trance, and every concert is a memorable event. To properly celebrate Le Fooding’s birthday, she is offering us a “customized” performance that promises to live up to the occasion...
A Quebecois who trained for nine years under Martin Picard at Au Pied de Cochon (Montreal), Hugue (no s) wound up in New York for the love of a girl from Queens. There, in the neighborhood of 50 Cent and the Ramones, he fell under the spell of an old, dilapidated diner, brought it back from the dead in his own way and became the talk of New York City in 2009, thanks to his dishes that are as Rabelaisian as
they are pornographic (oysters with spaghetti bolognaise, oatmeal with foie gras…), before looking for a fight by serving horsemeat at M.Wells Dinette, MoMA PS1’s insane diner! Excluded from the gastrocracy at first, this fine man ended up converting gastronomes in long underwear to his extravagant ways at a former Long Island City garage, bearing the name of M.Wells Steakhouse.
After art school and covering the walls of Paris with graffiti, this vandalizing aesthete took his adventurous spirit to the kitchens of… Passard. There, a revelation occurred! After a few missteps dancing in those Michelin-starred tracks, which were too traditional for his taste, the young prodigy escaped East, to rue de Charonne, where he took the pin out of two grenades: Septime and Clamato. There, in his Parisian kingdom, the ex-Arpégien devilishly tags his wild, unkempt, very raw and never overly demonstrative vegetal dishes, with the world at his feet.
After working at Roseval alongside Simone Tondo, this Englishman definitively conquered Paris by opening its first fish & chips shop with James Whelan, the redheaded version of Captain Haddock and an inspired mixologist. Almost immediately, their creation received Le Fooding’s stamp of approval, winner of the Guide’s 2014 Best Finger-lickin’ Joint Award. Precise cooking techniques, a light and crispy breading… And most importantly, the best fish from the Finistère in Brittany, very fresh and sourced exclusively from fair fisheries. For this new Veillée Foodstock, the British duo has solved the improbable equation: fried fish + peas + Jameson + cucumber + mint + lime = James, son of Dublin.
The charismatic guru of the healthy fast food trend, this born-and-raised New Yorker landed in Paris in the year 2000, rapidly coolifying Jacques Bonsergent (Bob’s Juice Bar), Arts et Métiers (Bob’s Kitchen) and Marx Dormoy (Bob’s Bake Shop, winner of Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 Adidas Street Food Award). His gift? Fresh cuisine: soups and sandwiches with rare flavors (coconut, sweet potato), vegetarian bagels… And unparalleled fresh fruit juices and milkshakes.
We knew him when he was old school, singing songs with only an acoustic guitar. And then as the frontman of a rugged and enraged band, who left to record an electric storm (Off the Map) with Steve Albini (Nirvana, PJ Harvey) in Chicago’s legendary Electrical studio. But the truth is that we hadn’t heard anything yet. Back with a new album, H-Burns proves once again that we can evolve endlessly, without ever repeating ourselves. More peaceful, more pop,
more clean, more Californian, but just as anxious and melancholy, Night Moves was produced by the much too rare Rob Schnapf (producer of great albums by Beck and Elliott Smith). Eleven songs, one theme: Los Angeles by night. A troubled and agitated night… Where we come across the ghosts of Elliott Smith, Brian Wilson, Neil Young or Bruce Springsteen, amongst others.
A talented chef, surfer and all-around hunk: the guy that all the other men are jealous of, and who has the ladies swooning, comes to us from the land of kangaroos. This Aussie boy wound up in Paris after following his then-girlfriend, and fell into cooking by chance, learning his trade from Daniel Rose (Spring). Then… he discovered the Est-éthique
in the kitchens of Au Passage (Le Fooding Guide’s 2012 Crush Award), where he wrote a buzzing manifesto of the people’s gastronomy with a fork… Before finally opening up his own house: Bones. The recipe: take two very dry bones and rub them together until they start to smoke!
Unknown in France, but a superstar in the States, this Bourguignon by birth trained with the greatest chefs (Gagnaire, Passard) and then continued his career in Southern California. After managing the kitchens of L’Orangerie in Los Angeles, the future King of pop-ups distanced himself from the old-fashioned restaurant business, preferring rather to bring haute cuisine to the streets, with ephemeral concepts like LudoBites (2007). In 2013, with LudoBird, he fried chicken and squatted the Staples Center before setting his knife kit down at Trois Mec and then at Petit Trois, a typically French microbistro, far away from the billionaire boulevards of Beverly Hills…
A Filipino mother, a Polish father, raised in France, Tatiana learned from the best (Passard at L’Arpège, Barbot at L’Astrance) before opening up her own restaurant with her sister Katia in the Far East of Paris. And she was collecting awards as soon as the doors opened! Le Servan was elected Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 Best Bistro straight away. In an invariably booked dining room, the young prodigy delivers her dishes, under countless influences. Which are as delightful as they are lively. So, please, stop saying that she is the girlfriend of… Rather, say: “Yeah, well, you know, the girlfriend of Tatiana’s boyfriend!”
Like many chefs of his generation, after a stint in the high-pressure gastronomic jets (he was head-chef at St. John Bread and Wine at only 26 years old!), James Lowe wanted to try something different. With his friends Isaac McHale (The Clove Club, London) and Ben Greeno (Momofuku, Seiobo, Sydney), they launched the Young Turks: a punk group of young London chefs, organizing groundbreaking pop-ups, motivated by a shared culinary philosophy. FYI: carefully sourced British ingredients fill HIS legible, generous and inventive dishes… Just a year ago, this former Fat Duck chef made waves in London by opening his own eatery in Shoreditch (Lyle’s).
A former chef at the neo-posh Ledbury (Notting Hill), the unique Isaac McHale quickly realized he wanted to rip up his tie. After a stint at Noma (Copenhagen), this Scotsman took over Shoreditch’s former Victorian city hall in the center of London’s East End — a once poor neighborhood, a patchwork of slums, taverns and brothels. His cuisine? Naturalist, centered around British ingredients and vegetables, very pleasurable.
After receiving insiders directly in their dining room in Saint-Cyprien, Hamid Miss and his wife Typhaine moved to the Chalets neighborhood. It’s in this working-class community that they’ve nestled their new restaurant. An establishment without a sign, hidden amongst these low houses that are characteristic of Toulouse’s faubourgs. A self-taught chef influenced by his native Morocco, Hamid styles his inventive cuisine according to the market and his mood. Winner of Le Fooding Guide’s 2015 Crush Award.
If i-D (the bible of English pop culture) recently mentioned her in its “Class of 2015” article, it’s because the unclassifiable Denai Moore navigates between soul and folk, staggering and vulnerable. Born in Jamaica but raised in the center of East London, in Stratford, she grew up around her father’s instruments. A precocious child, she discovered the vocation of composer at 12 and already had the big boys crying. At the end of 2012, at 19, she blew up on the music scene with her folk/R&B single Flaws. Denai signed shortly thereafter with Because Music (Metronomy, Little Dragon, Django Django…) which produced Saudade, her first EP, and multiplied her features (including the sublime track The Light for SBTRKT). Produced by Rodaidh McDonald (The xx, Adele), Elsewhere, her first album, has made her one of the most promising songwriters of the moment.
Snubbing the chic neighborhoods where he got his start (Robuchon, Taillevent, Agapé Substance) this crazy Japanese chef of French gastronomy was one of the first to venture over to the “No Go Zone” of faubourg Poissonnière. His bistronomic shoebox of a restaurant? An insider secret that was discreetly passed on by word of mouth, awarded Le Fooding Guide’s Crush Award in 2013. Where Katsuaki improvises inventive, polished and delicious dishes!
The adventures of Shay Ola, DJ and cook, began in 2013 in Shoreditch, with the creation of the Rebel Dining Society, an event management company that combined music and cuisine. Its most recent incarnation goes by the name of Death By Burrito, praised by critics for its crazy signature dishes, like the tacos with cocoa bean smoked beef… Always seeking out new experiences (he multiplied his pop-up events in London), he left to conquer Paris and opened his Death By… near the Canal Saint-Martin in 2015, mixing Mexican heat with French products. Before East Berlin and Amsterdam-Noord?
The United Kingdom, Peru, Italy… After having crisscrossed the planet, Mathieu ended up digging out his own spot, Café Sillon, right in the center of the Guillotière neighborhood, the Lyonnais version of Belleville, where halal kebab shops cozy up next to modern caves à manger. At 30 years and a few months old, the former chef of Le 126 is back with this Café, winner of the Best Bistro in France Award in the latest edition of the Fooding Guide. Trained by Gagnaire, this stovetop troublemaker concocts audacious and instinctive cuisine.
A French cook, the first owner and chef of L’Office (Paris), at a time when rue Richer smelled more like late-night pee than a tempting dish of the day, Nicolas landed in the Saint-Gilles neighborhood in 2010 to take over the stunning Café des Spores (dedicated to mushrooms) and, right across the street, his annex La Buvette, a sublime miniature restaurant operated in a former butcher’s shop. Since he liked it a lot, and since he isn’t lacking in good ideas, the fiery Alsatian opened Hopla Geiss at the end of October 2014, a bakery/bar where he serves excellent flammeküeches, a nod to his roots.
The backbone of the Kompakt label, their star of the techno scene with a Cologne twist, Aksel Schaufler grew up in the South of Germany but has lived for a few years on faubourg Saint-Denis. His style? A mix of ambient electro and minimalist sounds with pop undertones. With, to his credit: Heroin (2001), an unforgettable version of Brian Eno’s Baby’s On Fire, remixes for M83, DJ Hell, and some very cool duos — Supermayer with Michael Mayer; Pachanga Boys with Rebolledo… In Paris, we often come across him at Le Chateaubriand…
A former architecture student, Dave should, at the present time, be building boats. Except that instead, he’s pizzaioling! Trained at the excellent Franny’s in Prospect Heights (Brooklyn), he tinkered together his own mobile wood-fired oven, a geek fantasy, entirely made of sheet metal, raised up on a trailer, which in turn is hitched to a Volkswagen pick-up truck! A concept that he’s been breaking in for eight years, from the Fort Greene flea markets to Williamsburg, where he furbishes Neapolitan pizzas that’ll leave you weak in the knees: extremely fresh toppings, perfect slightly burnt crust. That you’ll also find any day now at Red Hook, at his first non-mobile restaurant.
After a stint at the very chic Mirazur in Menton, the Sardinian Simone migrated to Paris. There, in the minuscule Rino — which has since become Les Déserteurs —, chef Giovanni Passerini taught him how to cook “with few ingredients and little money.” Along the way, he teamed up with the Englishman Michael Greenwold, and they decided to open something new. It would become Roseval, perched between Ménilmuche and Belleville, soon after named Le Fooding Guide’s 2013 Best Restaurant. Now alone at the commands, this handsome guy delivers a rough and naturalist score, composed of delicate moments, at one of the trendiest joints in Paris.
Behind the bright lights of the Tropics hides Chris Ward, 27 years old. Alone in a big empty house in Southsea, in the south of England, which belonged to his grandmother, this lover of Motown composed and produced a debut album of melancholy ballads, Parodia Flare (Planet Mu) in 2011, a silky blend of soul and atmospheric electro… In 2013, the boy moved his soulectro to Shoreditch, changed labels and put out a new muffled and majestic album on Hanni El Khatib’s label, Innovative Leisure, in Silver Lake, the very cool L.A. neighborhood. Rapture, the first single, is a favorite over at Radio Nova…
“St. John represent!” Tom, the pastry chef at St. John Bakery Druid Street, is also refueling the St. John Bread and Wine in the Far East End of London. Opened in 2003, right across the street from a great vintage clothing market, the little brother of Fergus Henderson’s legendary St. John is one of the pioneers of modern British food in Spitalfields. But back to Tom and… his insanely good brownies (Valrhona 70% dark chocolate, an orgy of raw pecans and almonds), his Eccles cakes full of Lancashire cheese and… his mythic madeleines, baked to order and served hot. Those that he’ll be serving for the first time in France to 300 privileged guests during the Pur Brunch Nespresso at the Hôtel Amour.
This mythic familial cantina tirelessly transplants its classic South-Vietnamese cuisine to the Mitte district. But they don’t take reservations: first come, first spoiled rotten! The result: all of Berlin has been slurping up these succulent bowls of pho for the last seventeen years. The secret of Dat Vuong, who also keeps a portrait of his father — a former war photographer who looks a little like a kung-fu star — prominently placed in the middle of the room: a short and rotating selection of dishes, modified every two days, which guarantees extreme freshness and excellent flavors.
For this Grand Fooding event, the representative of Williamsburg (Brooklyn) — the world capital of hipstermania — is none other than the iconic face of DFA Records (the American electro label of James Murphy and Tim Goldsworthy). A former member of the now-defunct LCD Soundsystem and the vocalist of The Juan MacLean, Nancy is also a famous DJ, who is honoring us with her presence, after a performance at the Primavera Sound Festival. Her sound? A mix of disco, proto-house, postpunk, noise and electro, which won’t exclude tracks from her friends in Liquid Liquid, Deee-Lite, Nu Shooz, Sexual Harassment or Kraftwerk.
The queen of the alternative ‘dwich set up shop on rue de la Roquette, in this East Paris neighborhood that has turned into the French capital of the faubourgeois diet. And more specifically, in a former horse butcher’s shop, renamed CheZaline, winner of Le Fooding Guide’s 2013 Best Sandwich Shop Award. Trained in the school of life — she watched her seamstress mother fill up her father’s white iron lunch pail; she has a child with a dazzling chef responding to the name of Iñaki…, she is crazy about good products and has quite simply reinvented the quick lunch of modern times between two slices of bread or in a plastic basket. A blissful little shop.
When he was 20 years old, Philippe Cerboneschi, known as Zdar, traded in his Savoyard skis for a pair of sneakers and headed to Studio Marcadet, in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. Assistant to the legendary sound engineer Dominique Blanc-Francard, he met his son Hubert, also a fan of hip-hop. Together, they produced four of MC Solaar’s albums under the name of La Funk Mob, and created Cassius in 1998, whose international hits
and five-star featured artists (M, Pharell Williams, Sébastien Tellier, Etienne de Crécy, Ghostface Killah…) continue to crown the Holy French Touch. A gifted producer and mixer, who has produced some of the biggest groups (Catpower, Beastie Boys, Phoenix, The Rapture…), he has extended us the kindness of coming down from his 18th arrondissement via the north side to liven up Le Fooding’s fifteen year birthday celebration.