Altro Frenchie

Fancy another serving of Frenchie? Say goodbye to quality American fast food now that signor Grégory Marchand has been hit with a stroke of transalpine inspiration, brilliantly stirring up trouble with a sprinkling of parmigiano on the most mouthwatering cobblestoned street in Paris. At this modern yet chic trattoria (a charcoal-colored storefront, retro knick-knacks, walnut wood furniture designed by Émilie Bonaventure), Italophiles wolf down classics from the Boot, expertly made with a few twists here and there: lemony smoked sardines for aperitivo, lined up on crispy crostini still hot from the pan; pizzetta topped with a San Marzano tomato sauce, ricotta and ‘nduja that’ll have you licking your fingers clean – or plump fried artichokes served with a Parmesan sabayon for dipping; a big, fat pea and mint ravioli that was refreshingly bright and dusted in pecorino – or memorable pappardelle in a rich rabbit ragù, sprinkled with pine nuts and taggiasche olives… Before the goût de grace, an homage to River Café in London: a dreamily dense dark chocolate cake with a scoop of raw cream… Italian for the day, Frenchie forever! // Angela Dolu

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wine list that fluently speaks the language – naturally: a Lombard riesling from La Tenuta del Garda (€10 a glass), a Veronese rosso by Torre d’Orti (€8), a dry lambrusco from La Fattoria Moretto (€53 a bottle), and a chianti from Isole e Olena (€80)… Along with a beautiful selection of liqueurs, including those by Silvio Carta (myrtle or licorice, €8 for 60 ml).
PRICE: : Set menus €27-32 (weekday lunch), à la carte €41-79.