Auberge de la Forge

At merely 28 years old, Claire Cames and Théo Fernanedz have already added a fair share of Parisian Michelin-starred restaurants to their respective resumes (Shangri-La, the Meurice, the Ritz…), before heading back to their native Southwest region. He prepares the savory dishes while she crafts the sweets and takes care of guests at this village inn, a typical brick building that’s been given a modern makeover around an imposing fireplace and a giant blacksmith’s bellows hanging from the ceiling. The night we went, the locally sourced four-course menu struck a balance between technical prowess and modern trends: after a very Basque amuse-bouche of piquillo pepper sorbet, corn mousse and polenta croutons, we had squash from the gardens of Les Jardins de Ma Petite with an egg yolk preserved in ground coffee, an amontillado emulsion and guanciale from Colonnata; perfect slow-roasted yellow pollack, intensified by a rich grenobloise-style sabayon and fried capers; tender Ibaïama pork chops with smoked eggplant caviar, silky Provencal-style tomatoes, bread crumble and garlic chips; before a lovely beetroot-raspberry boule, with raspberry sorbet, beetroot icing, fresh raspberries and beetroot candies. // Auguste Marie

FEELING THIRSTY? There are a hundred-some labels available in the cellar: Les Équilibristes, a Bergerac white from Florent Girou (€7 a glass), Aurence, a Saint-Pourçain from the Domaine des Bérioles (€37 a bottle), Vieilli Foudre, a Collioure from the Domaine du Traginer (€53).
PRICE: Menus €43-59, kids’ menu €18.