En Bas

In what used to be the Verre-Bouteille – a former hangout for night owls in the 17th arrondissement, Charlie Genevière (the owner of Tomette at the Marché d’Aligre) is reigniting the fire with a small bistro that reflects his personal style: a tiny terrace on the boulevard, dusty pink mosaic tiles for the bar, Limoges porcelain and a beautiful mural at the back of the room. The ingredients are sourced as cleanly as possible (home-grown vegetables, palourde clams from the Bay of Mont Saint Michel and charcuterie from Chavassieux), while the cuisine cast a wide net. Expect bistro fare like: homemade terrine de campagne; a mi-cuit egg with fluffy mayo; flash-seared Guémené andouille; or a big steak with fries for two. Plus worldwide options: tender bluefin tuna tataki; sea bream and coconut milk ceviche; crispy chicken katsu with BBQ sauce; or spiced duck breast. And for a sweet note, a Tahitian vanilla crème brûlée or a chocolate lava cake. All served either as small plates or big portions à la carte. // Nicolas Leanjem

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s no wine list exactly, but bottles are served on tap (€6 a glass, €18 for a pitcher) and you’re invited to head down to the cellar to grab a bottle from the very natural collection: Granite, a Riesling from the Domaine Achillée (€55), Haute Côt(e) de Fruit, a Malbec from Fabien Jouves (€27), Hanami, a Saumur-Champigny from the Domaine Bobinet (€40) or the magnificent Côte-Rôties from Stéphane Ogier (€108).
PRICE: Set menus €21 (lunch), small plates €7-14, à la carte €30-64 (dinner).