Gramme 11

Just east of the Marais neighborhood, where she’s busy capturing hearts with her tiny coffee shop, Marine Gora had added another ace to her collection by opening a new bistro – complete with a wooden bar, timeworn tables and dim lighting. What’s on the agenda? More of her delightful seasonal salads, well-made sandwiches and divine tartines, plus something new: dinner service, during which she puts her twist on Parisian bistronomy via impressive creations. The other night, we had: some incredibly creamy red kuri squash soup with squash kimchi and salsa macha; a lovely barbecued romanesco broccoli skewer with mint chutney, green chili peanut sauce or pico de gallo (a mix of green tomatoes, onions and jalapeños) for dipping; a lovely, huge slab of toast topped with oyster mushrooms, button mushrooms and chanterelles over a layer of ricotta and kasha; crispy patatas bravas stacked up like a millefeuille; incredibly tender glazed pork ribs… And to round out the meal on a sweet note, a burnt (on purpose) cheesecake that could have used a little something extra. At lunch, you’ll find a classic menu (puntarelle salad à la lyonnaise with polenta croutons; potato and beef chuck millefeuille; Belle-Hélène pear with whipped cream…); and on the weekends, homemade granola, fried chicken sandwiches, roast beef with crispy potatoes… // Louise Delange 

FEELING THIRSTY? : In addition to eight cocktails (Long Bisou with gin from the Distillerie du Viaduc, Dolin blanc infused with umeboshi plums, tajin… from €11 to €12), there’s a heavy-hitting wine list: an Aude syrah from Ex Materia (€35 a bottle), Divin Poison, a melon from Vinilibre (€38), a Catalan sparkling wine from Patricia Creus (€45), or a Jura skin-contact wine from the Domaine de l’Octavin (€65).
PRICE: : Set menus €19-23 (weekday lunch), plates €7-16 (dinner), €11-16 and desserts €3-7 (lunch on the weekends).