Jamat

Everything is good here! From the fats to the wines, two major merits of this place written out on the marbled façade of Jamat. What does the name mean, you ask? It’s the couple name of the duo running things, aka Jacinthe Vandendriessche (who used to work in HR, then as a sports facilitator) and Matthieu Sales (ex-Les Arlots and La Cuisinière Lyonnaise). Old tomette tile floors, a wall covered in chili red tiles and tavern furniture set the tone for Matthieu’s flamboyant bistro cuisine. Gobbled up the night we went: fiery braised asparagus paired with sauce gribiche and capers; perfectly fried spicy panisses, intensified by chipotle mayo; tantalizing grilled octopus, smoking hot under a quilt of hummus, speck and bonito flakes; or even some herbaceous veal kefta with roasted carrots and fennel on the side. Still got room for more? Try one of the house desserts, like a plump strawberry-rhubarb pavlova with cacao whipped cream. // Cléo Tangerine

FEELING THIRSTY? Jacinthe has plenty of bottles of wine to choose from, which are always organic or natural: a Cadurcienne orange wine from Fabien Jouves (€8 a glass), a Gamay from Kéké Descombes (€36 a bottle), a Saumur white from the Domaine de la Paleine (€33)…
PRICE: Appetizers €6-12, mains €18-26, desserts €9-10.