Setting up shop in the former location of a well-established restaurant is no easy task… And yet the (very) young chef Zian Bodou, a disciple of Philippe Etchebest and Michel Guéard, nevertheless succeeded in doing so! These days, he delights customers in the historic center of Pau, within the walls of the former Esberit – which moved a few kilometers away. In a space with archaic decor (a timeless chandelier, bourgeois chairs, copper pots hanging from the wall), the 19-year-old Béarn native sends out a series of small gems from his inspired menus. The day we went: acacia honey surfing over a lovely fennel and thyme velouté; incredible grilled wild salmon swimming in a broth of fallen leaves, with carrots glazed in pine honey and borage shoots; before a delightful composition of fresh and stewed citrus fruits with Christmas spices for added warmth. Our only complaint? The service was a little slow. // Gérard Roubeix
FEELING THIRSTY? : Exclusively local wines: a jurançon from the Domaine Tinou (€6 a glass), Ardoises, a Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh from the Domaine du Moulié (€22 a bottle), Symbiose, a madiran from the Château Vilella (€25)…
PRICE: : Set menus €30 (lunch), €38 and €68.
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