Tomette tile floors, wooden ceilings, a long bar, moss green tables… Welcome to Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat’s (the duo behind Septime) cool seafood joint, where the fresh Atlantic catch winds up on some deliciously briny plates. On ours, the night we went: incredible squid tagliatelle with fennel; subtle smoked haddock with potatoes and a Savagnin-infused cream; ultra-tender purple eggplant served with trout roe and cashews; impressive grilled zucchini topped with anchovies and mustard seeds; before the lethal finale, a stunning Clamatarte made with maple syrup and topped with whipped cream – unless you’d prefer their strawberries and cherries marinated in a fig leaf sabayon (when in season!). // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Living wines that have been carefully chosen by Théophile: a Beaujolais Villages red from Alex Foillard (€7 a glass), an Auvergne Pinot noir from Marie and Vincent Tricot (€41 a bottle), a Chablis from Alice and Olivier de Moor (€64)…

PRICE: Plates €7-29.