Restaurant Passerini

Restaurant Passerini in ParisRestaurant Passerini (Paris) - © Romain Bassenne

Best Chef of 2017

Giovanni Passerini, head-chef at the much-missed Rino (Le Guide Fooding’s 2011 winner for the Best Bistrot d’auteur), has taken over the culinary duties as part of a 24-carat duo alongside Justine Prot, his longtime partner! At a restaurant bearing his name, you’ll find him in the open kitchen of a luminous nave, refined by the clean lines of Asma Architects, where the Art Déco ceiling lights and 1950s suspended orb lamps complement the vintage furniture. And you can say goodbye to the flashy pigments of the outsider chef: the great Giovanni now sends out his cuisine with no makeup and plenty of joy. At lunch and dinner, the flexible menu is a grandiosa parade of (h)It-alien dishes: mischievous and tender Romanesco tripe; asparagus and hazelnuts in a dark miso broth; thunderous lamb offal, parsley and cornichon skewers; virile broad bean and pecorino ravioli cooked in a lobster bisque for the pasta of the day; a crazy calf’s head alla genovese (€22-28)…. And that’s not all: for collective appetites, the house offers up collection pieces to share (pigeon for two, duck for four, turbot for six), dressed majestically and served with mixed greens tossed in the cooking juices. Saturday nights are reserved for emptying out the fridge! Which results in, at random: skewers (mackerel-zucchini-cornichon, for example), ravioli of the day (which you’ll also find in the adjoining boutique), a baba au rhum like you’d get in Naples and other goodies from lunchtime (€8-16). To drink, there’s an optimal and responsible irrigation system: Champagne from Pascal Doquet (€68) or Laval (€98 a bottle), a sharp, straightforward Côtes-du-Jura from Didier Grappe (€43), an Anjou from Nicolas Reau (€34), Burgundies from the legendary Le Prieuré Roch…. Wine by the glass €6-8, appetizer-pasta or main course set menu, with or without dessert, €24-34 (weekdays at lunch), pasta €15-18, shared plates €33-54. // Aitor Alfonso

Getting there

Restaurant Passerini
65, rue Traversière
Paris
(75012)
France
48.8494184
2.3748206
TEL: + 33 1 43 42 27 56
Subway: Ledru Rollin