Originally imported to the colonized Indochina of the nineteenth century under the name of bánh tây (“the Frenchman’s bread”), it later became known as bánh mì when locals reappropriated “sandwich bread.” In recent years, our favorite chefs have continually attempted to reinvent this flavor bomb of a sandwich. Take Gramme in Paris for example, where they serve an excellent “banh mi dog” made on a brioche bun and filled with shredded pork, pickled vegetables and green mayonnaise. But in February of 2021, the uncompromising Vietnamese chef Minh-Tri definitively broke Instagram with his take on the traditional bánh mì sandwich, taken to the next level with locally-sourced, homemade ingredients, sold for a few weeks at La Relève, a bookshop in the Goutte-d’Or neighborhood. Was it a tribute to the Khai Tri sandwich shop and bookstore on Avenue d’Ivry? We don’t know for sure, but much like Minh-Tri, Le Fooding wants to get back to basics.
Our criteria, as we searched for the best baguettes sandwiches in town?
– Balanced bánh mì flavors – a subtle mix of sweet, savory, tangy, spicy, passive and aggressive flavors.
– Dac Biet, or nothing at all – rolled pork belly, Vietnamese mortadella, grated carrots, cucumber, cilantro, mayonnaise and Maggi sauce were all non-negotiable elements of our perfect sandwich.
– Baguettes that are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside – never frozen!
The most authentic sandwich
A flashing neon “open” sign, a logo of the Eiffel Tower, photos of sandwiches printed on printer paper and taped to the window display… It’s impossible to miss the kitch-tastic façade of Saigon Sandwich, Belleville’s best bánh mì sandwich shop. Here, there’s always a crowd and the service is very fast and friendly. We walk out of the shop with a very balanced bánh mì sandwich in hand, made with their famous pork belly, beautiful slices of chả lụa (Vietnamese mortadella), chopped chicken, and fresh carrots dressed in vinegar. And to go with all that, a rather heavy-handed amount of Maggi sauce (which is a common enough phenomenon at most bánh mì shops)… But isn’t that what makes this bánh mì sandwich so incredible? Price: €4.
Saigon Sandwich – 8 rue de la Présentation, 75011
The heartiest sandwich
Advice to meat-lovers: the iconic restaurant Pho 13 on La Dalle des Olympiades opened a bánh-mì-centric spot with some incredible specimens up for grabs. The staff fill up their baguettes rapid-fire with peppery pork belly, head pâté (made with pig ears) and thin slices of mortadella. Our only complaint was the less-than-generous amount of carrots, cucumbers and herbs, which are necessary to cut the meat combo’s intensity, despite the hearty amount of mayonnaise. Chilies, however, are added upon request. Price: €4.20.
Bánh mì 13 – 66 avenue d’Ivry, 75013
The most bánh mìdeal sandwich
A stone’s throw from Place de la République, Angela and her team delight us with a bánh mì sandwich of nearly unrivaled simplicity and freshness: an extra-crispy baguette, thinly sliced Vietnamese mortadella, creamy mayonnaise intensified by a chili purée (optional), grated and vinegary carrots, loads of fresh cilantro and a (hearty) dose of Maggi sauce. Price: €8
Banh Mi – 81 rue de Turbigo, 75003
The most retro-futurist sandwich
A retro-futurist bánh mì sandwich is a hard thing to come by. If you want to discover this particular gem, you’ll need to leave the center of the 13th arrondissement and cross the tramway tracks – something young neighborhood connoisseurs readily do, who swear by Coupi Bar. Looking for the retro touch? Stéphane, the owner, is a true maestro of Vietnamese sandwiches, who brings together all of the ingredients necessary for an authentic bánh mì sandwich: homemade five-spice pork belly, rolled and stewed for four hours, outstanding Vietnamese mortadella, delicious pickled carrots, daikon radish and cucumber, slightly sweet mayo, and bread that’s baked in house, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. And the futurist aspect to it all? She offers up a customizable blend of cilantro, carrots and chili peppers, depending on how much freshness and spice you like in your sandwich. Price: €4.50.
Coupi Bar – 48 avenue de la Porte-d’Ivry, 75013
The family business sandwich
Formerly the owner of a clothing store, Madame La, who is also an incredible cook, decided she would rather make a living doing what she loves, by transforming her store into a delightful sandwich shop. Welcome to Banh Mi 88, where each sandwich is prepared with love. The baguettes are made in collaboration with a local baker (the insides aren’t too dense), and filled with big strips of pickled carrot and radish, incredible rolled pork belly, fried onions, homemade shredded and dried chicken, amazing mayonnaise, and to top it all off, a handful of fresh cilantro. There you have it, the perfect balance. Bravo! Price: €4.
Banh Mi 88 – 88 avenue d’Ivry, 75013
Plus the legendary addresses mentioned in the article above:
Thieng Heng – 50 avenue d’Ivry, 75013
Khai Tri – 93 d’Ivry, 75013
According to Chinese astrology, François Phan (the Parisian-Vietnamese author of this article), is a fire rabbit – a “sensible, discrete and refined” being. You can find him putting together lists of the best spring rolls in the city, or like today, the most bánh mì-thical spots in Paris.