Lava

This sizzling new spot from Wilfried Romain (who used to work under Thierry Marx before appearing on Top Chef France) and his brother Eliott, is fanning the still-timid flames of the culinary scene in Paris’ 5th arrondissement – already ignited by Sucrépice and Otto. In this space that’s as brutalist as a dormant volcano (charcoal-hued columns, shades of grey, dim lighting), we ascend to fine dining heights, with just the right amount of international flavor. Seated on the sloped terrace the night we visited, we opted for all of the following: juicy cebo de campo ham served with warm bread and cilantro oil for dipping, to kick things off; divine pollack killed ikejime-style and grilled in a miso marinade, gloriously served in toasted almond milk with fresh peas, and an explosively flavorful green crab and lemongrass jus, all sprinkled with shichimi (a Japanese spice blend); crisp artichoke served over puff bread baked on the barbecue, coupled up with smoked sardine and fresh mint; rosy Iberian pork pluma with an insanely flavorful pork and black cardamon jus, plus raw zucchini and yuzu kosho (a chili and yuzu rind condiment); a tiny yet delicious veal tartare seasoned with chimichurri and voatsiperifery pepper, served on a pecorino shortbread cracker; and to round out the meal, 70% dark chocolate and green cardamon ganache with a sesame praline tuile. // Angela Dolu

FEELING THIRSTY? : The brothers’ partner and sommelier Rémi Badjoint (ex-Divellec) expertly leads diners through his collection (but watch out for rapidly rising prices): a Nantes melon vieilles vignes produced by Bruno Cormerais (€11 a glass), Petites Cailles, a Lot malbec from Jean-Luc Baldès (€15), Kritt, a pinot blanc / auxerrois combo from Marc Kreydenweiss (€65 a bottle), or a Jura savagnin from the Domaine de la Renardière (€135).
PRICE: : Set menus €31-35 (lunch), plates €8-32, carte blanche tasting menu €75 (five courses, dinnner).