What’s the different between Marine Gora and eighteenth-century chemist Antoine Lavoisier? Everything, except the idea that nothing is lost, everything is transformed, whether in chemistry or on Rue des Archives. Proof in point: the radiant chef has now gone full cowgirl, transforming her former Gramme 3 into a saloon with velvet gloves, cowboy boots and queer flair. Riding high on her success, she now runs a pint-sized kitchen that’s a café by day, bar by night, in a setting that revels in contrasts, bringing together the good (swinging saloon doors, an old wall-mounted grandfather clock, fringed lampshades), the bad (stripped-back walls) and the rowdy (a loud playlist and howls of laughter). Depending on the mood, apéro-time quickdraws see some unbridled gildas blazing out the kitchen (Padrón peppers, olives and blue cheese or daikon, anchovy and shiso), a white bean dip topped with caramelized onions and salsa macha, stuffed squash with a gochujang and cancoillotte Mornay sauce, or even a blood orange flan. And at lunchtime? It’s all vegetarian from here on out, with a weekly menu featuring the likes of pumpkin mac and cheese, Turkish eggs or beans and mushrooms swimming in a white miso broth. The final yeehaw? Linger a little longer in this spaghetti western of impeccable taste, where sweet and savory snacks are (almost) available at any time of day, including the famous cookies that made Gramme 3 so beloved in the first place. · Agatha Crispy

FEELING THIRSTY? The owner is quick on the draw, pouring bottles of fine wines faster than her shadow, like Baiser Salé, a Gaillac white by Aurélie Lataix (€41 a bottle). Otherwise, a fistful of euros (€12 to be exact) will get you a flamboyant cocktail such as the Cherry Bomb (bourbon, cherry syrup, lemon, egg white and raspberry) or the Michelada (lager, lemon, Maggi, tabasco and tajín seasoning), which we could easily knock back three times over.

PRICE: Daily special €13 (lunch), sharing plates €9-18 (dinner), snacks €3.50 to €12 (daytime).